Organic Sales Were Up More Than Seventeen Percent in 2008

• By Ethan Huff
  NaturalNews, June 5, 2009
  Straight to the Source

The Organic Trade Association reported on May 4, 2009, that sales of organic products, both food and non-food, topped $24.6 billion in 2008, representing a 17.1 percent increase over 2007 figures. Amid economic turmoil both domestically and abroad, where most other product categories have been witnessing declining growth or even declining sales overall, the organic segment of the market in the U.S. has seen impressive gains and continues to procure popularity. This can be seen in the latest reports that show organic food sales now accounting for roughly 3.5 percent of overall food sales in the U.S.

While organic food products experienced a noteworthy 15.8 percent upswing in 2008 sales, attaining $22.9 billion, organic non-food products achieved an impressive 39.4 percent surge in sales, reaching $1.648 billion. This all occurred despite dire predictions by marketing research experts that organic sales would tumble due to massive economic contraction.

Though the rate of growth has been steadily declining over the past several years, waning from a 20.9 percent growth rate in 2006 to its most recent 14.6 percent industry growth rate last year, several significant organic milestones have been achieved including organic fruits and vegetables now accounting for almost 10 percent of overall produce sales. Organic food sales also grew more than three times the rate of conventional food sales which saw a mere 4.9 percent growth rate.

In the primary categories by segment, fruit and vegetable sales were up 6 percent from 2007, dairy up 13 percent, non-dairy beverages up a whopping 32 percent, breads and grains up 35 percent, and meat and fish up 12 percent. Other categories include packaged-prepared foods up 21 percent, snack foods up 11 percent, and sauces and condiments up 23 percent.

The report illustrates that, despite current economic woes, many people continue to navigate the tortuous world of food offerings with health in mind, choosing organic products in order to reduce their exposure to toxic chemicals, pesticides, fungicides, and genetically-modified organisms (GMOs). Studies have shown that, despite typically higher prices, organic consumers consider quality as well as price when perceiving value, leading them to choose organic over conventional even during financial crunch times. But which organic products provide the most benefits over their conventional counterparts?

The Environmental Working Group has published a list of its “Dirty Dozen”, or the 12 most pesticide-ridden fruits and vegetables based on an analysis of 87,000 tests performed between 2000 and 2007 measuring the presence of contaminants after being rinsed or peeled. Nectarines and peaches topped the list as being most contaminated with pesticides, followed closely by apples, strawberries, and imported grapes. Onions, avocados, and sweet corn, on the other hand, were found to be among the cleanest and most pesticide-free, even when produced conventionally. The full list can be found at http://www.foodnews.org.

Dear USDA, no NAIS!

To Whom It May Concern:
I am a 68-year-old urban farmer in Abilene, Texas. I began our tiny farm (just fruits, vegetables and eggs) because I was concerned about my family’s nutrition. I wanted to grow good fresh food without any additives over which I had no control. I also wanted to be able to purchase milk and meat from small producers who cherish these same values.
Because of weekly trips to the local farmer’s market, I soon learned that others who do not have access to land are also concerned. All of us are disappointed to learn about proposed NAIS regulations which would effectively drive some of these local farmers out of business.
I am aware that the proposed regulations have been motivated by a desire to control disease but I am confident that it will have the opposite effect since people who cannot afford involvement will either quit farming altogether or do so illegally.
Such a regulatory climate favors large corporate factory farms to the great disadvantage of small, family-owned farms. This is decidedly unfair.
Furthermore, many serious food borne illnesses, such as e. coli or salmonella contamination will not be curtailed, because tracking ends when the animal is slaughtered.
Add to all of this the usual confusion and bureaucratic burden that inevitably accompany such programs. Will the hoped-for ends justify the means? I am confident they will not.
I therefore urge the USDA to withdraw the proposed rule to implement portions of the National Animal Identification System, Docket No. APHIS-2007-0096.

Yours sincerely,
Dwight Whitsett
Charamon Garden

Recommended Reading

In Defense of Food by Michael Pollan – get it, read it (or listen to it), apply it. I have not read a single book by this journalist…I’ve listened to them. I started out with The Botany of Desire, continued with The Omnivore’s Dilemma, and am now in the middle of In Defense of Food. I heartily recommend each of them.

Michael is not a farmer or scientist or nutritionist. He’s a journalist. True to his profession, he is a great investigator and researcher. As I’ve listened to each book I have noticed a growing passion for good, healthy, nutritious, enjoyable food. Pollan celebrates food. He is also a bit of an agitator. He is an influential voice among the growing number of activists calling for a major overhaul of the way we grow and consume food.

In his latest book, he takes on “nutritionism.” Most of what Americans (and, I’ve noticed, Australians) are being encouraged to buy and eat is not food…it is, as Pollan states, “…edible foodlike substances.” These are the concoctions of the food processors. They process real food into junk food and sell it by advertising the “nutrients” they add back in. Growing ill health is the result.

His writing style makes this, for organic gardeners like myself, a real page-turner. His research is painstaking. His intrepid investigation brings unquestionable credibility to his work.. If you are part of the growing organic movement, you don’t want to miss this book.

In the meantime, eat your veggies…Nonnie and Pop said so!

Garden Report for December 2008

Winter has arrived in West Texas. So far, it is a dry one with no rain for more than 50 days! I am thankful to have a good well even if the water is a bit silty and hard. The vegetables don’t seem to mind.

We are still going strong with lots of Swiss Chard (Silverbeet), Kale, Collards, Broccoli, Cauliflower, Carrots and Lettuce coming right along. We also have begun harvesting Sunchokes (Jerusalem Artichokes). We have cover crops of Austrian Winter Peas and Hairy Vetch growing well.

Charamon Garden has made its first venture into the market selling our greens and the last of the Eggplants.  We appeared at the market for three Saturdays but now, with the onset of cold weather, production has slowed to the point where there is not enough surplus to sell.

The market is something that has to be planned for…so…I will do better planning as spring approaches.

Update for September

I realize that I haven’t posted for a while but other voices have been calling to me. Right or wrong, the absolutely urgent always trumps the pleasure of writing.

But, you might like to know what has been happening in the Charamon Garden. It is also a record for me when I ask myself, “When did I plant those fava beans last year?” So…here is what has been happening in September.

We have begun reclaiming beds that have not been used or cared for appropriately. We have begun this process with the help of my son, Justin. He has his father’s love of gardening and has been a strong and energetic help to his old man who gets tired too easily. He has tirelessly weeded, chopped, dug, hoed and hauled until things are once again in pretty good shape. He has dug out the trash trees, raked and tilled and mulched.

We have prepared the bed that will be used for tomatoes in the spring by planting a cover-crop of hairy vetch and a few broad (fava) beans. These will grow all winter and then be cut and left where they lie. We will cover all this with more mulch and then set out the tomato plants. We had a tomato crop failure this year because we took some wrong-headed advice and planted the tomatoes in the same bed for three years. Don’t do that.

We (Justin mostly) cleaned our largest bed and sowed more hairy vetch in it. At this point I am not sure what will be planted there in the spring/summer garden.

Our sweet corn is tasseling and silking out and we hope to see some nice ears of corn in the next few weeks. We had an infestation of army cut worms which Justin took care of with a dusting of BT. It has a lot of aphids on it but the ladybird beetles have arrived and will hopefully make meals of them.

We have planted the most garlic ever and the harvest will keep us busy around the last of April 2009. We will dry it and braid it and use much more than the recipes call for.

We have planted more swiss chard and it is looking good. This needs thinning pretty soon. We covered the seeds with a mixture of compost and sand and all sorts of things are coming up with the new chard…mostly squash and tomatoes. Their seed have been residing in the compost waiting for their chance.

We have planted carrots and a row of lettuce and we’re waiting for them to germinate. We are hopefully optimistic.

We have set out kale, cauliflower, collards, broccoli and cabbage.

We are harvesting yellow squash, lovely purple eggplant, okra, swiss chard, green peppers (capsicums) and, if Justin had not eaten them right off the tree (he deserved them), quite a few figs.

The butternut squash is looking very good and we should have a good supply over the next few months.

In the meantime eat your veggies…Nonnie and Pop said so.

Autumn Garden

We are getting ready for Autumn and Winter in the Charamon Garden. I have started broccoli, cabbage, kale, collards, cauliflower plants…I hope to set them in the garden in about a month. You can also grow carrots, parsnips, swiss chard (silverbeet), lettuce and several varieties of peas. I am also (I think) going to try potatoes (they need to be planted right away). Later on…say about the middle of October, I will plant garlic which will be harvested near the end of April. Radishes, spinach, broad beans (fava beans) and parsley will also work. You may need to invest in some floating row covers to put in place in case of a hard frost. Autumn is really a great time for a garden in Texas.

We have had some great rains lately and the garden has responded accordingly. The weather is a bit cooler and some of the veggies that were suffering with the heat are looking much better.

Six Lessons Learned from Gardening

All gardeners and potential gardeners need to read this great post by DoubleDanger.

Freeze Predicted!

Dad told me so. He said, “If you hear thunder in February, there’ll be a freeze in April.”   Well, he may be  right. We did hear thunder in February and a frost is predicted for Friday night.  We thought we were safe down here in zone 7b. The tomatoes have been set out and caged. The potatoes are sprouting. Fruit has set on the peach and plum trees. Tiny little figs have appeared on both trees (more like bushes). It’s been a rather coolish spring but another freeze? Egads!

Another piece of fiction is the “Mesquite Tree” theory.  Local wisdom has it that when the mesquite trees begin to leaf out, the danger of frost is past.  I have seen this one fail also.

That’s West Texas for you. We are far enough south to have some balmy spring days but subject to cold fronts roaring out of Canada and down the plains. That’s because it’s all land between here and the Arctic Circle. If we had an ocean between us and the arctic, it would moderate the weather and we’d be growing citrus and relaxing under palm trees.

Thankfully, we have tomato plants in pots should our worst fears be realized. We will move them inside right before the scheduled freeze. It remains to be seen, however, (1) if the forecasters are right and (2) what will survive the frost.

In the meantime, eat your veggies (if they survive the frost)…Nonnie and Pop said so.

Finding and Preparing Your Space

The first step is to clear the soil of weeds. If it is covered with Bermuda grass, you have some work to do. You must kill the grass either by covering it with black plastic for several months in the summer or use a (shudder) herbicide (more on this elsewhere). In West Texas, your soil, like mine, will be alkaline. It will probably be some variation on clay. Actually, it may resemble some substance in the process of becoming rock. While alkaline soils present some problems, they are fairly easy to overcome with time and patience.

The next step is to level the soil as much as possible. If it is already fairly level, that’s great. If you live on a hillside or slope, you might want to consider terracing. Many very nice gardens have been planted on hillsides. Level soil is just easier to work and water.

Now it’s time to lay out your beds. You’ve heard of raised beds? This is what we’re going to achieve. The beds should be no wider than four feet but can be as long as you like. Four feet is about all you can reach across to work your beds without stepping in them. It is a very good idea to edge your beds with bricks, blocks, boards, metal edging or something else. You need these edges to enable you to keep the beds well-defined and the paths clean. They will also help to hold the mulch in place (more about mulch later). Plan for paths to give you access to both sides and the ends. These paths need to be wide enough to drive your lawnmower down them. Some people use wood chips or some other substance on their paths. This has not worked well for me because you still get some weeds and grass coming up through it. I don’t mind weeding the beds, but it seems a waste of time to weed the paths. It might work better if one put down some kind of weed block first. I have found that it is much simpler just to mow the paths.

Once you have laid out your beds, you may loosen the soil in them with a digging fork. This will be one of the few times you need to do this because we will be strongly suggesting a method where you don’t disturb the soil more than absolutely necessary. The very act of loosening the soil and applying compost will raise your beds a couple of inches above the level of your paths. The addition of mulch will also add to the height of your beds. You want this height for drainage and aeration purposes. You should never set foot again in these beds unless absolutely necessary. Your goal is to never pack the soil. If you have soil like mine, it will do that by itself.

Now is the time to begin a process which will continue for your life or the life of your garden whichever ends first. You will begin to add nutrients to your soil in the way of compost, mulch and minerals. We will discuss this fully in the chapter on working the soil. But now is the time to add the first layer of compost followed by the mulch you stockpiled before you began. Do not be concerned about mixing this with the soil. This will happen naturally as microbes and worms do their work. As the soil life increases your compost and mulch will disappear and need regular replacement. So, what can you do now? Let’s think about that. Oh, I know! Let’s make some compost!

Next time, “A Rotten Idea”…in the meantime, eat your veggies! Nonnie and Pop said so.

Texas — The Final Frontier

This is the first of a series of articles on growin’ your own stuff. Check back frequently for the next installments.

You live in a cozy house surrounded by lawn and a few trees. That’s nice. You are the typical Texan homeowner. You water and fertilize the lawn so you can mow it every week during the summer. Over and over again you follow the same routine. By the end of summer, you are thoroughly sick of it. Then, as cool fronts boldly begin to intrude, you have to deal with all those leaves. It is then you begin to wonder, “Who invented this ‘lawn-thing’ anyway?” When one realizes that all it does is make work and require expensive water and fertilizer, one begins to wonder about the sanity of it all. My question to you is, “Why don’t you kill a large portion of that lawn and redirect your water, fuel and energy, toward growing something you can eat?” When you bought the place, gardening may not have entered your mind. Now you think you might like to grow some stuff. So where will you put the garden? Good question. Let me try to help you.

Space is what you need. Space…the final frontier. You must boldly go forth and find a spot where the sunlight reaches the ground for at least six hours a day in the summer. A few vegetables, such as some peppers, grow well in dappled shade. But, for the most part, if you don’t have a sunlit spot you’re out of luck. The next option is to find a space somewhere else, perhaps a vacant lot or a space along the alley, behind the fence, etc. You must also have easy access to water, but later on we’re going to discuss ways to use very little of that precious and pricey resource. Now that you have found a place to garden, there are several preparatory steps.

• You will need some hand-tools: shovel, digging fork, rake, wheelbarrow or garden cart, trowel and hand fork. It is important to have a place where these can be covered or stored away from the elements when not in use.
• Make provision to get water to the vicinity of your garden (hoses or pipes). You will eventually need to think about drip irrigation – the most efficient way to water in our semi-arid climate.
• Begin stockpiling mulch. You will never have enough! Save newspapers, leaves, clippings, trimmings, and put them in a place where you have enough room to work with them. In Abilene and many other cities in the region, you can fetch loads of mulch from the local recycling center.
• You will need to plan space next to your stockpile for some tools such as a grinder/shredder and, hopefully a cement-mixer in which you will seldom mix cement (these are not absolutely necessary but make life easier).
• Begin a compost pile or bin if you have not done so already. All vegetable scraps from the kitchen, plus tea leaves, coffee grounds, etc. make excellent compost. You can also begin a worm bin which we will discuss later.
• Buy enough compost to cover your garden beds two inches deep and have it on hand. If you have a pickup or trailer, buy bulk compost. It is substantially cheaper than the bagged variety.

Next time: “Finding and Preparing your Space”…in the meantime, eat your veggies!  Nonnie and Pop said so.